life is like a sprinter

Walaupun sebenarnya mengganti oli mesin mobil anda adalah proses yang mudah, banyak orang lebih suka pergi ke bengkel untuk menggantinya. Berikut ini adalah beberapa tips bagi mereka yang ingin menghemat sedikit waktu dan biaya, dengan mengganti oli mesin mobil sendiri.

Langkah Persiapan
1. Tempatkan mobil Anda pada permukaan yang benar-benar datar.
2. Mobil harus benar-benar dalam kondisi berhenti (tak bergerak). Kalau perlu, gunakan jack stands untuk menahan body mobil.
3. Jack stands harus selalu terpasang saat mobil diangkat dengan dongkrak. Jangan berada di bawah mobil jika mobil masih dalam kondisi didongkrak.
4. Selalu gunakan sarung tangan yang berbahan tebal dan anti panas saat mengganti oli mesin, untuk menghindari katup penutup oli yang panas.


Peralatan Yang Dibutuhkan

1. Buku panduan. Ini sangat penting untuk bisa mengetahui informasi tentang jenis oli mesin dan berapa banyak takaran yang dibutuhkan mesin mobil Anda
2. Oli mesin mobil
3. Mangkuk penampung oli bekas
4. Filter oli baru
5. Kunci filter oli
6. Kunci pembuka bergigi
7. Sarung tangan
8. Seperangkat kunci baut
9. Lap
10. Corong
11. Dua buah jack stands atau penyangga body mobil
12. Dongkrak


Mengganti Oli

1. Saat kita mempersiapkan peralatan untuk mengganti oli mesin, biarkan mesin mobil menyala selama kurang lebih 10 detik, sebelum mulai mengganti oli. Kemudian, tempatkan mobil Anda pada permukaan yang datar dan pasanglah hand-rem atau rem tangannya.
2. Letakkan dongkrak di atas permukaan yang keras dan sekiranya mampu menopang body mobil.
3. Dongkraklah bagian depan mobil dengan hati-hati. Kalau perlu, masukkan gigi satu untuk mobil-mobil yang bertransmisi manual. Atau lebih meyakinkan lagi, ganjallah ban belakang mobil dengan batu.
4. Lihatlah pada buku manual, dimana letak katup untuk membuang oli. Biasanya itu terletak di bagian depan-tengah-bawah dari mobil.
5. Pastikan mangkuk penampung oli bekas berada di bawah katup pembuang oli, sebelum membuka katup tersebut. Dengan menggunakan kunci pembuka, bukalah katup tersebut searah dengan jarum jam (jika Anda membukanya dari atas). Hati-hati, bisa jadi suhu oli masih panas.
6. Biarkan oli keluar hingga benar-benar habis, sementara bersihkan katup pembuangan oli tersebut, serta bukalah katup untuk memasukkan oli yang baru. Setelah itu pasanglah kembali katup pembuangan, kencangkan dengan wajar (jangan terlalu kencang).
7. Gantilah oli filter yang lama dengan yang baru. Periksa seal dari filter dan tambahkan lapisan film baru yang tebal untuk melapisi seal. Kemudian pasanglah filter oli yang baru dan kencangkan dengan tangan.
8. Setelah filter baru terpasang, bukalah tutup oli mesin, masukkan corong dan tuangkan oli mesin yang baru, sesuai dengan takaran yang telah ditetapkan pada buku panduan. Setelah takaran terpenuhi, tutuplah kembali tutup oli dan bersihkan tumpahan oli di sekitar lubang tersebut.
9. Hidupkan mobil dan biarkan mesin menyala beberapa saat. Kemudian periksalah ketinggian oli dengan tongkat ukur (sudah terpasan di atas mesin) dan tambahkan oli lagi jika diperlukan.
10. Periksalah kemungkinan kebocoran di saluran pembuangan oli dan filter oli yang baru. Jika ada, kencangkan hingga tak terlihat rembesan oli. Sebagai tambahan, jika Anda selalu menambahkan oli untuk mendapatkan takaran yang pas, berarti ada kebocoran oli pada mesin. Maka Anda harus segera memeriksa letak kebocorannya. Atau segeralah menghubungi bengkel yang terdekat.

Perhatikan tanggal penggantian oli tersebut dan jarak tempuh mobil Anda. Oli sebaiknya diganti tiap 3000 km, atau tiap tiga bulan sekali, jika Anda tak terlalu sering dan tak jauh mengendarainya. Penggantian oli yang terlambat akan berakibat pada mudah naiknya temperatur mesin dan bunyi mesin yang kasar.

Saat mengganti oli, sebaiknya Anda juga memeriksa juga bagian mobil lainnya yang mengandung cairan, seperti pendingin, power steering, transmisi dan juga rem. Siapa tahu diperlukan penambahan cairan atau oli rem, sehingga Anda juga bisa mengontrolnya. Nah, selamat mencoba.

posted by : Putri Puspa Sasmitasari
072613206
Business English 07

Motorcycles are popular than ever.....
We have known motorcycle for long time.We also use it whenever we go........so we must ride our motorcycle safety because it is very important.
Now we want to give some tips how to ride safety our motorcycle.
Here we are.......:

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation offers these guidelines for motorcyclists:

1) Get Trained
If you’re a new rider,you must get trained first.Research has shown that more than 90 percent of all riders involved in crashes were either self-taught or taught by friends.

2) Get Licensed
You must have licensed.Don't ever ride your car if you don't have it because you'll get a problem if you ride it especially in city.


3) Ride Sober
Recent data confirms that alcohol is involved in almost half of all single-vehicle motorcycle crashes. Don’t drink and ride.So you must make sure that you are in good condition when you ride your motorcycle.


4) Ride Responsibly
Wear protective gear, including a helmet approved to meet DOT (Department of Transportation) standards, eye protection, jacket, full-fingered gloves, long pants, and over-the-ankle boots. Keep your bike well maintained. Maintain proper lane positioning to further increase your visibility to drivers, and keep a “space cushion” between your bike and other traffic. Most importantly, know your skill level and ride within it.

Those information are very important for us.May they are useful in our riding.........
Start now we must be careful in riding.........
Don't ever underestimate the simple things.


Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007

nyadar g seh sebernya kita ntu kadang kadang menyepelehkan keamanan diri kita sendiri saat berkendara.g perduli di jalan umun atopun di gang gang kecil deket kompleks ato rumah...nah...buat kamu kamu yang mo aman...nih referensi buat kalian...ya kan kecelakaan siapa yang tahu....just as preventive action guyz....

"Banyak di antara kita yang merasa bahwa jika telah menggunakan helm, maka aman sudah. Padahal sebenarnya tidak demikian. Helm adalah soal teknologi sehingga model, material, hingga dimensi dan beratnya pun bisa memberi pengaruh. Baik pada aspek keamanan, kenyamanan, bahkan prestasi.

Mari kita tinggalkan soal prestasi, karena itu membutuhkan pembahasan panjang yang kurang relevan di sini. Cukup kita ketahui bahwa helm rata-rata pembalap didesain sedemikian rupa agar memiliki alur yang sesuai dengan aerodinamika. Gunanya agar mendukung kecepatan balapan pada MotoGP, memperbaiki aliran udara ke intake pada Formula 1, atau membuat pengendara bisa menyusun strategi dengan baik penuh panel penunjang balapan. Juga cukup kita ketahui bahwa helm mereka sangat ringan sehingga tidak melelahkan dipakai selama waktu balapan yang panjang dan anti benturan sehingga aman saat terjadi kecelakaan.

Pilih yang Aman dan Nyaman

Helm yang baik adalah helm yang aman dan nyaman. Helm yang aman akan memberi perlindungan maksimal. Biasanya helm semacam ini lulus persyaratan DOT (Departement of Transportation) alias standar transportasi Amerika Serikat. Ada juga standar-standar lain seperti untuk Eropa, Jepang, bahkan Indonesia sendiri. Apapun itu, helm yang aman adalah helm yang terbuat dari lapisan cangkang luar yang membungkus seluruh kepala dan menyisakan cukup ruang untuk melihat ke depan. Kita sering menyebutnya helm full face atau cakil. Juga cangkangnya harus lumayan tebal dan anti benturan. Memang sedikit lebih berat, namun untuk helm-helm yang sedikit agak mahal, seperti Arai, Shoe, dan Nolan, produsen menghadirkan kekuatan lebih dengan material yang justru lebih ringan.

Namun demikian, sebagus apapun helm anda, jika ia tidak benar-benar pas pada kepala justru berbahaya. “Helm yang longgar tidak ada gunanya”, demikian slogan-slogan kampanye penggunaan helm di Barat. Baik helm yang digunakan dalam olah raga maupun berkendara akan kehilangan manfaat perlindungannya bila terlepas saat kecelakaan. Semahal apapun harganya dan sebagus apapun modelnya.

Juga jangan menggunakan helm yang kesempitan. Contohnya yang terjadi pada bung Harry di atas, yang sehari-hari wira-wiri menggunakan motor dengan helm kesayangannya. Gara-gara helm kekecilan, ia hampir saja celaka. Bung Harry ini merasakan gejala sakit luar biasa, sampai keluar air mata. Padahal saat itu ia bermaksud mengetes adrenalin dengan flat out di atas motor dan helm barunya.

Helm sempit memang bisa membahayakan. Aliran udara maupun aliran darah dalam kepala terganggu. Misalkan anda menggunakan balaclava atau kaos kepala untuk menyerap keringat sehingga helm yang tadinya cukup “ngepas” malah jadi “ngepres”. Atau memang helm anda kekecilan. Ini bisa menyebabkan sesak napas atau tekanan yang menghambat aliran darah di kepala. Keduanya menyebabkan rasa pusing, sakit kepala, hingga black out alias pingsan saat berkendara. Bahayakan?

Helm yang aman mestinya berbanding lurus dengan tingkat kenyamanannya, meskipun hampir-hampir tak ada helm yang benar-benar nyaman. Helm yang nyaman haruslah cukup ringan sehingga dalam perjalanan jauh (turing), medan melelahkan (macet dan jalan buruk), atau mungkin motor sedang mogok, tidak menganggu secara berlebihan.

Helm ini harus pula memungkinkan anda melihat dengan jelas, baik kala siang-malam atau terik-hujan. Beberapa helm dengan kaca mika yang bagus didesain untuk anti embun/anti berkabut. Ada juga yang apabila siang cukup bisa menahan cahaya panas karena ada lapisan filmnya, namun jika malam cukup terang. Yang jelas, hindari menggunakan kaca helm gelap saat malam dan sebaliknya kala siang. Miliki saja dua kaca mika yang selalu bisa anda gonta-ganti sesuai kebutuhan. Jika tidak mau repot, miliki dua jenis helm.

Hindari penggunaan jenis mika yang kurang bening yang mengurangi jarak pandang, terutama saat malam. Mika helm yang sudah penuh goresan, sebaiknya diganti saja. Silahkan pilih yang berkulitas bagus yang ditandai oleh kebeningan dan tidak berefek cembung/cekung. Jenis helm yang mikanya cenderung memberi efek cekung atau cembung bisa membuat anda yang matanya masih normal merasa pusing. Beberapa mika helm yang gagap produksi atau imitasi bisa mengalami efek cacat seperti ini."

nah....udah tahu kan....make helm aja juga g cukup loh...kita kudu tahu gimana cara make yang bener..helm bahan apa yang bagus atau awet...but all of this is backed to you guyz...smuanya tergantung kalian kan....just do the best safety for urself...okay....?


selamat berkendara...^^


posted by : Lely novitasari
072613218
Business english 07

Dome Light yang dimaksud adalah lampu kabin, lampu yang umumnya terpasang pada plafon mobil. Lampu ini bermanfaat untuk menerangi interior kabin saat gelap dan butuh penerangan untuk beraktifitas. Jumlah Dome light pada kabin mobil tidak sama, ada yang hanya 1 hingga 3 atau lebih, hingga penerangan terlihat merata.

Umumnya dome light menggunakan bohlam sebagai sumber cahaya, dan jenis bohlam yang paling umum digunakan adalah model kapsul dikarenakan umur pakainya yang sangat panjang (bisa lebih dari 5 tahun). Ukuran panjang bohlam kapsul ini pun bermacam-macam sesuai dengan kapasitas watt-nya, makin besar watt, maka makin panjang dan gemuk bohlamnya.

Saat ini banyak ditemukan produk pengganti lampu pijar untuk dome light dengan menggunakan LED sebagai sumber cahaya.
Secara teori, teknologi LED banyak memberikan manfaat apabila dibandingkan dengan menggunakan teknologi lampu pijar, antara lain seperti pada tabel di bawah.

Namun pada kenyataannya, pernyataan bahwa umur pakai lampu LED yang hingga 50 kali lipat umur pakai lampu halogen tidak sepenuhnya benar demikian. Proses produksi (kualitas produksi) hingga material yang digunakan untuk membuat LED tersebut sangat mempengaruhi umur pakai LED itu sendiri. LED yang cepat mati umumnya masuk kategori produk “abal-abal”, karena material/komponen yang digunakan tidak dapat dipertanggungjawabkan kualitasnya.

Posted by; Putri Puspa Sasmitasari
072613206
business English 07

Take Care of Your Investment

How will you spend your tax refund? New flat-screen TV? Ipod? Clothes? Vacation? While all of those things might be fun, a better investment might be to spend it on maintenance for one of your largest investments – your vehicle.

The National Car Care Council estimates that more than $62 billion in vehicle maintenance and repair is not performed every year. This is evidence that there is considerably more that consumers should be doing to protect their automotive investment.

Preventative maintenance can decrease the chances of a breakdown. It will make your vehicle safer, more dependable, more fuel efficient, and less polluting. A properly maintained vehicle has more longevity and is more valuable than an improperly maintained vehicle.

As we head into a touchier economic time, saving money and having lower expenses becomes more important. A new automobile is generally most consumers 2nd largest investment next to their home. So a great way to save money and increase financial assets is to hang onto their current vehicle rather than buy a new one every few years. Budgeting for and performing preventative maintenance on your car is one of the best ways to cut your costs and keep your car.

Posted by: Putri Puspa Sasmitasari
072613206
Business English

We know if we want to sell our bike,we will look for the high price........So,We want to give the information about how to get the best price..............here are.....

Standard bikes rule

Dealers and private buyers alike are on the lookout for standard, well cared-for machines, especially at the top end of the market. They want bikes with full and documented histories, which haven’t been tampered with or suffered a crash. Adding tat – like gaudy anodised trinkets and imitation carbon do-dahs – is likely to detract strongly from a bike’s resale value. Worthwhile modifications, ones which may actually increase resale values, tend to be practical ones rather than simply cosmetic. Quality aftermarket suspension for instance will raise a buyer’s interest, as will hard luggage and manufacturer’s optional add-ons. But before you flog a bike with it all onboard, do your sums – would you be better off selling the kit separately, or would it make better financial sense to offer it to buyers as a separate, additional sale?

Keep it tasteful

By over-personalising a machine you’re very much restricting its potential appeal to people with the same taste (or could that be lack of it?) as yourself. The same goes for custom spray-jobs, which buyers may also assume is a cover for crash damage. And murals? A very bad idea – leave the bimbos in fur bikinis and devil-snake things on the 70s album covers hidden in your attic. Things become even worse if you get into heavy modification. Specials which involve throwing many thousands of pounds at a bike will never realise anything except a weighty financial loss. However, to the right person it’ll be worth every penny – but this will invariably involve a very long wait for that person. If you want to build a true one-off, why not start with a donor wreck?

Choose carefully

It’s possible to avoid big-time depreciation by selecting the right machine in the first place. BMWs, for instance, hold their value extremely well, as do Honda Pan Europeans in the touring market. When it comes to getting top dollar for sports bikes, then if you are wise enough to buy a clear road-test victor, a bike universally considered to be the best in its class, and therefore a guaranteed future classic, then in a few years’ time it’s likely to be worth more than the opposition.



1. As important as cleaning a bike is storing it in the dry. So, if you don’t have a garage, invest in a good quality cover (not plastic, that will encourage condensation) and never cover the bike until it has fully dried. If the bike is to be left unridden for any length of time, give metal parts a decent spraying with Scottoil Protector oil.

2. Standard bikes make buyers feel confident and will generally fetch more cash than modified ones. Race pipes and other performance parts say ‘thrasher,’ and there’s always a doubt over whether that tampering has been professionally done. So keep the original parts when modifying, refit them to advertise the bike as standard, then…

3. Take off those add-on rearsets and race cans and sell them separately for about two-thirds of their original price. Cheap options for finding a buyer include advertising in dealer windows or talking to owners at bike meets. To hit a bigger audience, and sell faster, advertise in MCN.

4. There are add-ons which can help you sell. Automatic chain lubricators, clear headlamp protectors and fitted covers all speak of a caring owner and allow the price to be kept high. Hard luggage is another indication of a sensible owner, but with quality systems costing upwards of £500, make sure you recover the cost or sell them separately.

5. Keep your bike’s service record up to date, especially if selling it within its warranty period. Stick with an officially franchised dealer to keep resale high. If you’ve got an older bike and home-service it, keep a detailed record of what you’ve done and when and keep receipts of service items, like oil and air filters.

6. As well as giving peace of mind, fitting a high quality, insurance-approved alarm/immobiliser will help pay for itself in reduced premiums. It’s also a good selling point. As well as saving the buyer the hassle and expense of getting one themselves, an alarm indicates that a bike is owned by someone who likes to do things right.

7. Keep receipts for all work done to a bike – not just servicing. If it’s been Dynojetted or had a new shock fitted, then keep receipts to prove that it’s been done professionally… if it has. Receipts for bolt-ons will help you sell them, as a growing number of riders won’t buy used spares unless you can prove they haven’t come from nicked bikes.

8. Take a good long look at your bike through the eyes of a stranger. Where are its flaws? Repair those minor defects. Stone chips can be touched up with colour-matched paints or nail-varnish. Scored screens can be replaced cheaply with aftermarket items, spoiled chrome/aluminium can be brightened with a good polish.

9. A lot of everyday bike damage is caused by stone-chipping and this can be prevented by something as simple as a roll of clear plastic costing around three quid. Wrap up fork sliders and any forward facing surfaces – on naked bikes include the front edges of the tank; on faired bikes the belly pan’s leading edge and any other surface you see fit.

10. A mudguard extension may not enhance a bike’s looks, but will protect its lower front – including the radiator – from road crud and stone chips. At the rear, a hugger is usually viewed as sensible and beneficial by potential buyers. It will help keep the bike’s rear end cleaner, meaning less polishing.

11. Even on dry days road salt can find its way on to your metal parts and it only needs a bit of air moisture to kick off corrosion. So if you can’t resist the temptation of sunny winter and early spring days, make sure you rinse the bike off afterwards. Better still, if you’ve got an expensive machine, get yourself a cheaper second bike for winter riding.

12. Unless it’s important to keep your bike in concourse condition, then consider waiting to replace damaged parts until just before you sell the bike. Even if you’re claiming on insurance, you could keep running around with scuffed or second-hand parts until it’s time to sell – when you’ll have mint parts with which to wow the potential buyer.

These are the tips.May they will be useful.......

Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007

1. Hook up the hose to the pressure washer or spray nozzle and then place the bike on its sidestand, or, preferably, on a paddock stand to get access to the entire bike and to make turning the rear wheel easier. The bike really needs to be cold or the cleaning agent/soapy water will quickly dry on any hot parts.

2. First apply chain lube to the chain to stop water/cleaner getting into the linkages. Apply degreaser with a cut-down paintbrush to collected oil and grease (rear rim, front sprocket area, swingarm, etc) and dab it off. Take care not to soak bearings (wheel hubs, steering stem) or the chain as these will dry up and seize.

3. Spray the whole bike with cleaning agent. Go heavy on really dirty areas, a slight mist on parts like the tank, screen and switchgear. Spray as much as you can on to the front of the engine where road grime collects. If need be, agitate soiled panels with a soft cloth or sponge. Bug removal sprays are available for splattered screens.

4. Fire up the pressure washer or hose. The idea is to blast away the now loose dirt to prevent scratching when washing with soapy water and sponge. Start at the top of the bike and work downwards. Don’t aim directly at the switchgear and areas with bearings. Use a softer fan spray to clean the radiator or its soft fins will get broken.

5. Take the bike off the paddock/sidestand. Grab the bars firmly and lean the bike over on to your knee, then go round to the other side and repeat – this helps trapped water drip free. Put the bike back on to its stand and remove the fairing. Soak up any excess water from around the engine.

6. Apply more cleaning agent to areas which couldn’t be reached with the fairing on, such as between radiator and cylinder head, the lower part of the engine cases and so on. Use the hose/washer to blow it all off. Take care not to hit delicate parts such as the battery, ECU, airbox, carbs, etc. Protect these areas with plastic bags.

7. Now mix the soap/shampoo solution with warm water in a bucket. Wash the removed panels with a soft cloth and then rinse off with clean water. Leave them to dry while you then wash the rest of the bike. Again, be careful when washing delicate areas (switches, ECU, etc). Rinse off with a softer spray of cold water.

8. Remove excess water in the same way as before. When the bike is dry apply WD40 to any working parts such as the switchgear, throttle linkages, etc. You could also put it on your wheel rims – it makes cleaning them a lot easier next time they’re washed – for a good shine, but wipe down with a cloth to prevent it getting on the tyres.

9. Put whatever bodywork you took off back on. Grease up fastener threads with Copaslip grease. Grease up lever pivots with… erm, grease. If there’s any water left in niggly areas (indents in the frame where spindles sit, Allen bolt heads on the fuel cap) soak up with kitchen roll to avoid water stains/corrosion.

10. Bikes get hammered with road grit. If you see chips then it’s best to fill them in with touch-up paint from your dealer. If there are just surface scratches – you always get small scratches when washing – buff them out with T-Cut renovation cream. This stuff’s particularly good at getting rid of flies.

11. If the bike has a stainless/chrome/ally can and there are other areas of bare aluminium (rearsets, footpeg brackets, etc) which have stained or been scratched, then set about them with Autosol metal polishing cream. It takes time to get a good finish but persevere – it’s worth it and it won’t take nearly so long to clean next time.

12. Time to get busy with the polish. Recognised brands tend to perform better and it doesn’t matter if it’s a liquid or solid type. Use as per the manufacturer’s directions. Don’t use silicone spray for a shiny finish, the stuff soaks into plastic/paint and is impossible to spray over if the panel ever needs to be repaired.


Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007