life is like a sprinter

Dome Light yang dimaksud adalah lampu kabin, lampu yang umumnya terpasang pada plafon mobil. Lampu ini bermanfaat untuk menerangi interior kabin saat gelap dan butuh penerangan untuk beraktifitas. Jumlah Dome light pada kabin mobil tidak sama, ada yang hanya 1 hingga 3 atau lebih, hingga penerangan terlihat merata.

Umumnya dome light menggunakan bohlam sebagai sumber cahaya, dan jenis bohlam yang paling umum digunakan adalah model kapsul dikarenakan umur pakainya yang sangat panjang (bisa lebih dari 5 tahun). Ukuran panjang bohlam kapsul ini pun bermacam-macam sesuai dengan kapasitas watt-nya, makin besar watt, maka makin panjang dan gemuk bohlamnya.

Saat ini banyak ditemukan produk pengganti lampu pijar untuk dome light dengan menggunakan LED sebagai sumber cahaya.
Secara teori, teknologi LED banyak memberikan manfaat apabila dibandingkan dengan menggunakan teknologi lampu pijar, antara lain seperti pada tabel di bawah.

Namun pada kenyataannya, pernyataan bahwa umur pakai lampu LED yang hingga 50 kali lipat umur pakai lampu halogen tidak sepenuhnya benar demikian. Proses produksi (kualitas produksi) hingga material yang digunakan untuk membuat LED tersebut sangat mempengaruhi umur pakai LED itu sendiri. LED yang cepat mati umumnya masuk kategori produk “abal-abal”, karena material/komponen yang digunakan tidak dapat dipertanggungjawabkan kualitasnya.

Posted by; Putri Puspa Sasmitasari
072613206
business English 07

Take Care of Your Investment

How will you spend your tax refund? New flat-screen TV? Ipod? Clothes? Vacation? While all of those things might be fun, a better investment might be to spend it on maintenance for one of your largest investments – your vehicle.

The National Car Care Council estimates that more than $62 billion in vehicle maintenance and repair is not performed every year. This is evidence that there is considerably more that consumers should be doing to protect their automotive investment.

Preventative maintenance can decrease the chances of a breakdown. It will make your vehicle safer, more dependable, more fuel efficient, and less polluting. A properly maintained vehicle has more longevity and is more valuable than an improperly maintained vehicle.

As we head into a touchier economic time, saving money and having lower expenses becomes more important. A new automobile is generally most consumers 2nd largest investment next to their home. So a great way to save money and increase financial assets is to hang onto their current vehicle rather than buy a new one every few years. Budgeting for and performing preventative maintenance on your car is one of the best ways to cut your costs and keep your car.

Posted by: Putri Puspa Sasmitasari
072613206
Business English

We know if we want to sell our bike,we will look for the high price........So,We want to give the information about how to get the best price..............here are.....

Standard bikes rule

Dealers and private buyers alike are on the lookout for standard, well cared-for machines, especially at the top end of the market. They want bikes with full and documented histories, which haven’t been tampered with or suffered a crash. Adding tat – like gaudy anodised trinkets and imitation carbon do-dahs – is likely to detract strongly from a bike’s resale value. Worthwhile modifications, ones which may actually increase resale values, tend to be practical ones rather than simply cosmetic. Quality aftermarket suspension for instance will raise a buyer’s interest, as will hard luggage and manufacturer’s optional add-ons. But before you flog a bike with it all onboard, do your sums – would you be better off selling the kit separately, or would it make better financial sense to offer it to buyers as a separate, additional sale?

Keep it tasteful

By over-personalising a machine you’re very much restricting its potential appeal to people with the same taste (or could that be lack of it?) as yourself. The same goes for custom spray-jobs, which buyers may also assume is a cover for crash damage. And murals? A very bad idea – leave the bimbos in fur bikinis and devil-snake things on the 70s album covers hidden in your attic. Things become even worse if you get into heavy modification. Specials which involve throwing many thousands of pounds at a bike will never realise anything except a weighty financial loss. However, to the right person it’ll be worth every penny – but this will invariably involve a very long wait for that person. If you want to build a true one-off, why not start with a donor wreck?

Choose carefully

It’s possible to avoid big-time depreciation by selecting the right machine in the first place. BMWs, for instance, hold their value extremely well, as do Honda Pan Europeans in the touring market. When it comes to getting top dollar for sports bikes, then if you are wise enough to buy a clear road-test victor, a bike universally considered to be the best in its class, and therefore a guaranteed future classic, then in a few years’ time it’s likely to be worth more than the opposition.



1. As important as cleaning a bike is storing it in the dry. So, if you don’t have a garage, invest in a good quality cover (not plastic, that will encourage condensation) and never cover the bike until it has fully dried. If the bike is to be left unridden for any length of time, give metal parts a decent spraying with Scottoil Protector oil.

2. Standard bikes make buyers feel confident and will generally fetch more cash than modified ones. Race pipes and other performance parts say ‘thrasher,’ and there’s always a doubt over whether that tampering has been professionally done. So keep the original parts when modifying, refit them to advertise the bike as standard, then…

3. Take off those add-on rearsets and race cans and sell them separately for about two-thirds of their original price. Cheap options for finding a buyer include advertising in dealer windows or talking to owners at bike meets. To hit a bigger audience, and sell faster, advertise in MCN.

4. There are add-ons which can help you sell. Automatic chain lubricators, clear headlamp protectors and fitted covers all speak of a caring owner and allow the price to be kept high. Hard luggage is another indication of a sensible owner, but with quality systems costing upwards of £500, make sure you recover the cost or sell them separately.

5. Keep your bike’s service record up to date, especially if selling it within its warranty period. Stick with an officially franchised dealer to keep resale high. If you’ve got an older bike and home-service it, keep a detailed record of what you’ve done and when and keep receipts of service items, like oil and air filters.

6. As well as giving peace of mind, fitting a high quality, insurance-approved alarm/immobiliser will help pay for itself in reduced premiums. It’s also a good selling point. As well as saving the buyer the hassle and expense of getting one themselves, an alarm indicates that a bike is owned by someone who likes to do things right.

7. Keep receipts for all work done to a bike – not just servicing. If it’s been Dynojetted or had a new shock fitted, then keep receipts to prove that it’s been done professionally… if it has. Receipts for bolt-ons will help you sell them, as a growing number of riders won’t buy used spares unless you can prove they haven’t come from nicked bikes.

8. Take a good long look at your bike through the eyes of a stranger. Where are its flaws? Repair those minor defects. Stone chips can be touched up with colour-matched paints or nail-varnish. Scored screens can be replaced cheaply with aftermarket items, spoiled chrome/aluminium can be brightened with a good polish.

9. A lot of everyday bike damage is caused by stone-chipping and this can be prevented by something as simple as a roll of clear plastic costing around three quid. Wrap up fork sliders and any forward facing surfaces – on naked bikes include the front edges of the tank; on faired bikes the belly pan’s leading edge and any other surface you see fit.

10. A mudguard extension may not enhance a bike’s looks, but will protect its lower front – including the radiator – from road crud and stone chips. At the rear, a hugger is usually viewed as sensible and beneficial by potential buyers. It will help keep the bike’s rear end cleaner, meaning less polishing.

11. Even on dry days road salt can find its way on to your metal parts and it only needs a bit of air moisture to kick off corrosion. So if you can’t resist the temptation of sunny winter and early spring days, make sure you rinse the bike off afterwards. Better still, if you’ve got an expensive machine, get yourself a cheaper second bike for winter riding.

12. Unless it’s important to keep your bike in concourse condition, then consider waiting to replace damaged parts until just before you sell the bike. Even if you’re claiming on insurance, you could keep running around with scuffed or second-hand parts until it’s time to sell – when you’ll have mint parts with which to wow the potential buyer.

These are the tips.May they will be useful.......

Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007

1. Hook up the hose to the pressure washer or spray nozzle and then place the bike on its sidestand, or, preferably, on a paddock stand to get access to the entire bike and to make turning the rear wheel easier. The bike really needs to be cold or the cleaning agent/soapy water will quickly dry on any hot parts.

2. First apply chain lube to the chain to stop water/cleaner getting into the linkages. Apply degreaser with a cut-down paintbrush to collected oil and grease (rear rim, front sprocket area, swingarm, etc) and dab it off. Take care not to soak bearings (wheel hubs, steering stem) or the chain as these will dry up and seize.

3. Spray the whole bike with cleaning agent. Go heavy on really dirty areas, a slight mist on parts like the tank, screen and switchgear. Spray as much as you can on to the front of the engine where road grime collects. If need be, agitate soiled panels with a soft cloth or sponge. Bug removal sprays are available for splattered screens.

4. Fire up the pressure washer or hose. The idea is to blast away the now loose dirt to prevent scratching when washing with soapy water and sponge. Start at the top of the bike and work downwards. Don’t aim directly at the switchgear and areas with bearings. Use a softer fan spray to clean the radiator or its soft fins will get broken.

5. Take the bike off the paddock/sidestand. Grab the bars firmly and lean the bike over on to your knee, then go round to the other side and repeat – this helps trapped water drip free. Put the bike back on to its stand and remove the fairing. Soak up any excess water from around the engine.

6. Apply more cleaning agent to areas which couldn’t be reached with the fairing on, such as between radiator and cylinder head, the lower part of the engine cases and so on. Use the hose/washer to blow it all off. Take care not to hit delicate parts such as the battery, ECU, airbox, carbs, etc. Protect these areas with plastic bags.

7. Now mix the soap/shampoo solution with warm water in a bucket. Wash the removed panels with a soft cloth and then rinse off with clean water. Leave them to dry while you then wash the rest of the bike. Again, be careful when washing delicate areas (switches, ECU, etc). Rinse off with a softer spray of cold water.

8. Remove excess water in the same way as before. When the bike is dry apply WD40 to any working parts such as the switchgear, throttle linkages, etc. You could also put it on your wheel rims – it makes cleaning them a lot easier next time they’re washed – for a good shine, but wipe down with a cloth to prevent it getting on the tyres.

9. Put whatever bodywork you took off back on. Grease up fastener threads with Copaslip grease. Grease up lever pivots with… erm, grease. If there’s any water left in niggly areas (indents in the frame where spindles sit, Allen bolt heads on the fuel cap) soak up with kitchen roll to avoid water stains/corrosion.

10. Bikes get hammered with road grit. If you see chips then it’s best to fill them in with touch-up paint from your dealer. If there are just surface scratches – you always get small scratches when washing – buff them out with T-Cut renovation cream. This stuff’s particularly good at getting rid of flies.

11. If the bike has a stainless/chrome/ally can and there are other areas of bare aluminium (rearsets, footpeg brackets, etc) which have stained or been scratched, then set about them with Autosol metal polishing cream. It takes time to get a good finish but persevere – it’s worth it and it won’t take nearly so long to clean next time.

12. Time to get busy with the polish. Recognised brands tend to perform better and it doesn’t matter if it’s a liquid or solid type. Use as per the manufacturer’s directions. Don’t use silicone spray for a shiny finish, the stuff soaks into plastic/paint and is impossible to spray over if the panel ever needs to be repaired.


Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007

Nowadays....Our idol appears again. He comes back in this racing in MotoGP 2008.
We have been waiting for long time to know his best performance.........
here is...................

Valentino Rossi reached another milestone in his career today, joining an elite group of riders who have stood on the premier class podium 100 times today after riding his Fiat Yamaha M1 to second place in Jerez. The seven-time world champion formed part of a podium double for the Fiat Yamaha Team as his team-mate Jorge Lorenzo finished third, claiming his second consecutive podium in his rookie season.

Starting from fifth, Rossi did not get the best of starts and finished the first lap in sixth, but he soon settled into a good rhythm and was stalking Lorenzo, then in second, by lap three. On the next lap he passed his team-mate and set off after Dani Pedrosa, who had led from the start. The Spaniard was too quick today however and Rossi was unable to catch him, lapping comfortably in second until crossing the line at the end of the penultimate lap, when he mistakenly thought the race had finished and slowed down as he crossed the line. He quickly realised his error however and luckily had enough of a cushion from Lorenzo to hang on to second, eventually finishing 2.883 seconds behind Pedrosa. Rossi moves into third place in the championship, whilst Lorenzo holds onto second and the Fiat Yamaha Team leads the team’s championship


This is his proof that he can make the best performance again.He brings his bridgestone...He is back up by his team yamaha.Finally he succeed.
rossi make the best qualities...............


Posted by Enik Zunaida
072613210
Business English 2007

This is the second racing of MotoGP.....jerez was the circuit. I always wait for the racing n want to know about it. and in that moment,Lorenzo surprised me....!! he was young rider....but he has good skill and performance.but of course...rossi is still number one....for me...and the other may be....

for your info....this is the result of racing in Jeres.....


Dani Pedrosa gave his home Spanish crowd something to cheer about as the Repsol Honda pilot rode to a dominating victory at Jerez. Pedrosa was joined on the podium by fellow Spaniard Jorge Lorenzo, who finished third, and Valentino Rossi, whose second-place finish gives him 100 career rostrum appearances. Casey Stoner earned a lackluster 11th-place finish on a difficult day for the defending MotoGP champ.

Pedrosa's victory came after a solid start, grabbing the holeshot from Lorenzo, who started from pole position for the second time this season. Once Pedrosa got the lead, he built up a cushion by ripping off a lap record on Lap 2 and was unchallenged en route to the checkers.

Lorenzo ran strong, but was unable to hold onto second-place as teammate Rossi would not be denied. The Doctor snagged his first podium since Phillip Island last year.

With the front three ahead of the pack from the outset, fourth-place was taken by Nicky Hayden. The Kentucky Kid had a positive outing, punctuated by a near lowside save similar to but not quite as spectacular as the qualifying move by fellow American Colin Edwards (if you haven't seen Edwards' save, get Googling for the footage). As for the Texas Tornado, a front-row start did not pan out, as Edwards earned a DNF with a Jerez crash he could not miraculously salvage this time.

Some of the best racing on Sunday came over the battle for fifth, with Loris Capirossi emerging on top aboard his Rizla Suzuki. Tech 3 Yamaha's James Tosleand was sixth, Kawasaki's John Hopkins seventh and JiR Honda's Andrea Dovizioso eighth, with all four riders dicing back and forth, separated by less than a second at the finish.

San Carlos Gresini Honda's Shinya Nakano finished ninth followed by Suzuki's Chris Vermeulen, both riders scoring their first top-10 results of the season.

Earning a double-digit finish for the first time since his crash-filled 2006 rookie campaign, Stoner's 11th-place performance included a pair of off-track excursions. The first came early, with the Aussie running off on Lap 2. The second time Stoner made a desperate pitch to get around Vermeulen and Nakano in the final laps, but wound up in the gravel instead.

The Round 2 victory gives Pedrosa the points lead in the 2008 championship - the first time since Round 2 of the 2007 season that the MotoGP points leader was someone other than Casey Stoner. Five points behind Pedrosa is rookie sensation Lorenzo in second, with Rossi just 10 points back and hungry for his first win of 2008. In spite of his poor result, Stoner is within striking distance of the lead, just a single point off Rossi's tally.

The GP paddock now takes a one-week break before rolling into Portugal and the Estoril circuit.

MotoGP Jerez Results:
1. Dani Pedrosa (Repsol Honda)
2. Valentino Rossi (Fiat Yamaha) +2.883
3. Jorge Lorenzo (Fiat Yamaha) +4.339
4. Nicky Hayden (Repsol Honda) +10.142
5. Loris Capirossi (Rizla Suzuki) +27.524
6. James Toseland (Tech 3 Yamaha) +27.808
7. John Hopkins (Kawasaki Racing) +28.296
8. Andrea Dovizioso (JiR Team Scot) +28.449
9. Shinya Nakano (San Carlo Honda Gresini) +32.569
10. Chris Vermeulen (Rizla Suzuki) +35.091
11. Casey Stoner (Ducati Marlboro) +42.223
12. Marco Melandri (Ducati Marlboro) +44.498
13. Anthony West (Kawasaki Racing) +45.807
14. Alex de Angelis (San Carlo Honda Gresini) +45.871
15. Toni Elias (Alice Team) +1'09.558
16. Sylvain Guintoli (Alice Team) +1'14.442
DNF Colin Edwards (Tech 3 Yamaha) +22 laps
DNF Randy de Puniet (LCR Honda) +25 laps

MotoGP Points Standings:
1. Pedrosa - 41
2. Lorenzo - 36
3. Rossi - 31
4. Stoner - 30
5. Dovizioso - 21
6. Toseland - 20
7. Hayden - 19
8. Capirossi - 19
9. Hopkins - 13
10. Nakano - 10

that was the recap of MotoGP 2008 in Jeres....i hope it can make the reader enlarge their knowledge about MotoGP and always be up to date.I add this article with the posting of Bart Madson to complete this article...so..Just enjoy it....!!!


Posted by : Lely Novitasari
072613218
Business English 2008